In the world of starred restaurants, the place par excellence, the one that arose back in 1962 on the initiative of Aimo Moroni and his wife Nadia, and which today continues under the guidance of his daughter Stefania and Chef Alessandro Negrini and Fabio Pisani.
di Stefania Buscaglia
There is a place in Milan that for over half a century has welcomed its guests in the name of quality and identity. A place where relationships, feelings and passion have been able to transform a restaurant into a world-renowned starred restaurant, while faithfully retaining its values and strong personality. That Place is The place. The place of Aimo and NadiaBorn in 1962 thanks to the effort and will of Aimo Moroni and his wife Nadia – in a historic moment in which Italy began to glimpse the benefits of the economic boom, and in an area of Milan far from the glories and from the excesses of the city’s most fashionable neighborhoods to drink – the Aimo e Nadia restaurant threw bases in a pioneering way of what has established itself today to be the “philosophy” of Italian Haute Cuisine; a philosophy that places the excellence of our country at the center of its gastronomic investigation, promoting the “Italian Grandeur” and giving shape to dishes that start from shopping, from careful choice of raw materials and close relationship with suppliers, looking for the best ingredients from the whole peninsula. Recipes that tell Italy in its entirety, to the rediscovery of flavors and aromas at times forgotten, projected into current events through the creative gesture of the chefs.
First Michelin star in 1980, the Aimo e Nadia restaurant adds the second ten years later. Shortly thereafter, However, Aimo is forced to temporarily leave the kitchens for health reasons and the restaurant, which has an affected to it. But in 1998, her daughter Stefania Moroni takes over the reins, and has the intuition of transform the restaurant into a place: a place to eat; a place of ideas; a place where different art forms can dialogue with each other and trigger explosive admixstures. To accompany her on this adventure of contemporary continuity, Stefania calls two young chefs, Alessandro Negrini and Fabio Pisani. Since 2005, after a period of professional and cultural support, the couple Aimo and Nadia Moroni passes the baton of the kitchens to the couple (in this case, professionally talking) Negrini / Pisani who trigger their experience at the place, in compliance with the teachings of the founders themselves. The start is explosive: in 2008 the Negrini / Pisani couple regained the second Michelin star, in 2014 was elected as “Best Chef” for the Gourmet Identity Guide and became a presence important television.
Apparently, the two Chefs only have the profession and the year of birth. For the rest, never pair it could be more dissimilar and, for this reason, more balanced and able to outline a path on the fil-rouge of historicity and innovation: the dishes that gave prestige at four are kept on the menu walls of via Montecuccoli such as the iconic Spaghetto al Cipollotto (dish from 1965) or the famous Zuppa Etrusca – made according to the dogmas of the Moroni couple but modernized by imperceptible details, fully promoted votes from Aimo himself – and new ideas are introduced that blend flavors and traditions of the Alessandro’s Valtellina, Fabio’s Puglia and, of course, all of Italy. Dishes that can be discovered through three different more or less daring menus, and which never stumble upon annoying style exercises or phantom flights.
Therefore, the principle of “Italia First! ”, which at the Place of Aimo and Nadia – whose premises they have known a recent restructuring – it finds coherent logic, exactly as for the other two Milanese signs of the trio of patron Moroni-Negrini-Pisani, or the BistRo inaugurated in 2018 and VOCE, in the central Piazza della Scala: different in terms of gastronomic offer and type of service, but spokesperson also of that quality and that Italian taste with a thousand flavors inaugurated by Aimo Moroni in 1962, and which they built the history of Grande cucina Italiana.