BETWEEN TRADITION AND FUTURE
What edition that of the Michelin Guide 2019! A new Michelin Starred Chef, 29 new starred restaurants and a final loot that brings Italy to see 406 Stars shine in the restaurant throughout the boot.
by Stefania Buscaglia
There is a time of year when it is advisable to put down the phone and not disturb the members of the Haute Cuisine. That period is November and, to be precise, the week before the presentation of the gastronomic Guide par excellence: Michelin Guide. An emotionally complicated week, characterized by tensions, emotions and fears.
It is the week in which the most talented and ambitious chefs of our country yearn a phone call in which a voice begins with the now legendary request: “Can I speak with the Chef?”. A question that anticipates what will be the fate of that restaurant. Because today, to be or not to be on the Michelin Guide, it really makes the difference!
A guide born in France in 1900 with the aim of accompanying the traveler towards the perfect destination. Instrument that, with the passing of time – has certainly followed the changes in society but that – from its inception – has never ceased to represent the gastronomic mantra of those who choose to move not only for duty, but above all for pleasure.
On November 16, 2018 at the Paganini Auditorium in Parma the presentation of the Michelin Italy Guide 2019 was staged. Many expectations were satisfied. As many surprises are able to generate debate, as in the case of the absolute absence of new bull bars. The fact is that this 2019 opens with important numbers that go to thicken the pages of a Guide increasingly rich in addresses not to be missed for the world of hotels and especially catering that with a new 3 stars and 29 restaurants neo-starred establishes a situation richer of truly unmissable gourmet proposals.
Proposals that sometimes – to put it to Michelin – are worth the trip, as in the case of Uliassi who, with his coronation, leads to a ten the number of Italian restaurants. A long awaited consecration, able to gratify and put at the center quality, professionalism and a cuisine that gives value to the dish, telling the story of a wonderful territory: a restaurant that was born three decades ago as a beachside location in the splendid Senigallia time, has supported a natural metamorphosis that has allowed him to gradually raise the bar, without ever losing sight of his values. Values shared with her sister Catia (always at his side and in charge of the Sala), with his children and all the staff. Values that make Mauro Uliassi an abnormal Chef, antidivo, antisocial and entirely focused on their own reality without ambitions of second openings, bistros or satellite projects. No, Uliassi stays there, in his Marche to keep the three Macarons with the same passion that has always distinguished the work.
Passion that unites the other nine Italian 3 stars that is worth remembering: the recent St. Hubertus, in San Cassiano (BZ), the Reale restaurant in Castel di Sangro (AQ), Piazza Duomo in Alba (CN), the Osteria Francescana in Modena, Da Vittorio in Brusaporto (BG), La Pergola in Rome, the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, Le Calandre in Rubano (PD) and Dal Pescatore in Canneto Sull’Oglio (MN). Among these, a fitting reference to the Famiglia Santini restaurant, Temple of Italian catering for over ninety years and a record by Guinness: it is, in fact, among the ten Italian starred restaurants the most “long-lived”, that is, what keeps firm and for more time the Three Michelin Stars. The secret? To interpret our work as the essence of life itself where family rhythms and customs blend harmoniously with one’s profession: this is the reason why, sitting at the table, Dal Pescatore is like being part of a life project in which the hospitality of Alberto and father Antonio in Sala, combined with the high quality of a kitchen orchestrated by the extraordinary Nadia Santini and his son Giovanni, represent the model of family hospitality that the world envies us.
The undisputed protagonist of the 2019 edition of Red Guide is Enrico Bartolini who, thanks to the assignment of the Michelin Star to Locanda Sant’Uffizio in Piedmont, reaches the absolute supremacy in Italy: six stars out of five restaurants. A unique example that seals the continuous successes of the young thirty-eight year old Chef. Opened in mid-March in a splendid 16th century former convent Relais, transformed into a charming hotel, Locanda Sant’Uffizio relies on the talent of the young Chef Gabriele Boffa and on the polite hospitality of the good Francesco Palumbo in Sala. Milan, Bergamo, Venice, Castiglione della Pescaia and now the Asti area: the five starred restaurants signed by Enrico Bartolini express and embody a precise philosophy, a method of thought and work that has in the enhancement of the place, biodiversity and people a specific reason for being, as the Chef confirms: «Every restaurant is in a special location that is characterized by the place where it is located and by the people who live there. What we are trying to offer is a cuisine that is both contemporary and good, keeping us faithful to their respective territories and trying to let the various resident chefs express themselves following a style that we have shared together».
It is a young and contemporary Michelin that of 2019: among the newly-starred sprouts more and more cutting-edge chefs, bistronomic models and distant places are singled out and not commonly beaten in the classic itineraries, as in the case of Quafiz, good restaurant of Nino Rossi in Aspromonte that – breaking patterns and customs – offers the flavors of an unprecedented Calabria.
Paths and experiences similar to those of two geographically polarized restaurants but with a contiguous vision. They deservedly won their first Macaron the Materia of Cernobbio (CO) by Davide Caranchini and the Bros’ in Lecce by Floriano Pellegrino and Isabella Potì. Both are very young, in which the couple and the family nucleus is at the base of the project, that tell about ambitious young people to build their knowledge and training in some of the temples of world food and then go back to their origins and put in place a project that could “do local, global thinking”. Sometimes extreme dishes and unable to compromise that tell of a new unstoppable generation of Chef (to underline that both Potì and Caranchini were mentioned among the “30 under 30” most talented and influential in Europe by Forbes magazine), and of the spirit continuous renewal of the gastronomic Guide par excellence.
Photo credits @ Lucio Elio; Domenico Mazzullo; Lido Vannucchi; Michelin.