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WHEN THE PIZZA BECOME GOURMET

It was born from the intuition of Simone Padoan, the phenomenon of gourmet pizza is becoming
popular in the center-north of our country. We know three truly unmissable realities.

by Stefania Buscaglia

The pizza is the emblem of the Italian gastronomic spirit in the world. A poor dish that, according to the most reliable sources, was born towards the middle of the XVIII century and the time has preserved it according to culture and tradition. A simple dish, a national heritage and that in recent years has been experiencing what has been around for some time in the kitchen scene: an evolution that raises the role of the pizza chef to that of researcher and custodian of a quality that, rejecting voted consumerist logic down to the qualitative, it raises the Italian dish par excellence to a true gourmet phenomenon, ever closer to Haute Cuisine.
In Italy, today, there are about seventy-five thousand pizzerias. Of these, only six hundred belong to the prestigious Gambero Rosso Guide, a reference mantra for all the most famous pasta lovers in the world. Guide that assigns scores (and cloves) to those realities worthy of being visited in our country and that divides the selection of the premises according to the type of pizza proposed: Neapolitan, Italian, baking tin and tasting.
If in the south of Italy, the Neapolitan tradition obviously reigns supreme, in the center north the so-called Tasting Pizza, a gourmet version and alternative to our local classicism, is becoming more and more popular. A variant that absolutely does not want to diminish the traditions but that chooses to renew itself in a more modern way, introducing a more convivial ritual for its tasting. To trigger this revolution, Simone Padoan of I Tigli di San Bonifacio (VR), award-winning Master of the dough and example of a whole nouvelle vague of pizza makers who see a base on which to lay unusual materials of absolute excellence cooked separately or sometimes raw, in order to bring out the best in quality. A high pizza served in cloves to ensure a contemporary experience in which the balance of the ingredients plays a fundamental role and in which – as in haute cuisine – it is legitimate to speak of the acidity, sweetness or crunchiness of the elements used.
Pizza makers increasingly chef and pizzerias more and more restaurants for atmosphere and elegance. It goes without saying that a region like Lombardy could not resist the call of an increasingly chic and affirmed phenomenon, capable of involving the diner in an experience capable of overcoming the simple dinner. In addition to the classic most famous addresses such as the Dry in Milan and Sirani in the province of Brescia, there are three other realities that are certainly worth a visit.

Ciclone – Sirmione (BS)
In one of the most fascinating Italian tourist resorts, overlooking Lake Garda, there is a very special restaurant where the Noris family has been carrying out a tradition of quality and Territory for ten years. A philosophy that cannot fail to have repercussions on the pizza menu, conceived and created by the talented Mattia Cantini, cook and pizza maker of the Alleanza Slow Food network who, thanks to dough made with organic stone-ground flour and yeast (37 years old), and with very personal and refined topics, he brought the Ciclone to obtain Due Spicchi on the Gambero Rosso Guide. An experience through the tasting of the four types proposed, that includes the unmissable steam pizza and the refined corn and pike – an evident tribute to the cuisine of the Garda area.

Era Pizza – Monza
From 2017 the city of Monza has a different flavor, thanks to a young and trendy project by Ivan Gorlani – master pastry chef. A project devoted to quality, territory and culture that – in less than a year – leads Era Pizza to obtain a Uno Spicchio Gambero Rosso, thanks to crispy pizzas outside and soft inside that often arise from the curiosity and the pleasure of Gorlani to be reunited with historical and literary documents, inspiring pizzas like the Monzese or the Coq au vin – pizza that is reworked thanks to the literature of the great French writer of the nineteenth century, who loved our country so much.

Anima Romita – Crema (CR)
Among the most interesting projects developed around pizza and its tasting, there is this restaurant, lounge and cocktail bar, born in 2017 from the intuition of Fortunato Amatruda, a visionary entrepreneur capable of giving shape to a restaurant with futuristic and international atmospheres, but that proposed an authentic pizza, made with the utmost attention in the dough and with an exhausting search for the raw material used: exceptional all the variants made with four different mixtures among which the ancient recipe of Tramonti DOC stands out, a 100% wholemeal with fennel and served with the Tramonti tomato, Cetara anchovy, garlic and capers. Great attention also for the list of cocktails, suggested in combination and designed to make a special experience truly unforgettable!

Photo credits © Lucio Elio

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